Hello again! So, we are currently in Marsala (home of the famous wine) and we have finished!!!! A few sights still to catch but we are doing it as regular tourists. The cycletour officially ended this morning when we packed up our tent for the last time and headed for the b&b where we will spend the last 5 nights (bloody luxury!). It's been amazing. We're knackered. I (charlie) look like a different person it would seem (seriously, it's like someone who used to look like me started this tour and got lost somewhere around the dordogne). We're done with looking at screens for the moment so, as usual, here is the details of the last section. We will endevour to fill out all the info over the next few days.
Day 79 - Catania -> Capo Campolato (53km)
Day 80 - Capo Campolato -> Avola (67km)
Day 81 - Avola -> Capo Braccetto (91km)
Day 82 - Capo Braccetto -> Capo Braccetto (0km)
Day 83 - Capo Braccetto -> Falconara (72km)
Day 84 - Falconara -> San Leone (48km)
Day 85 - San Leone -> Agrigento -> San Leone (27km)
Day 86 - San Leone -> Seccagrande (47km)
Day 87 - Seccagrande -> Seccagrande (5km)
Day 88 - Seccagrande -> Porto Palo (47km)
Day 89 - Porto Palo -> Biscione (90km)
Day 90 - Biscione -> Marsala -> Biscione (32km)
Day 91 - Biscione -> Marsala (15km)
Showing posts with label Fritterly '08. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fritterly '08. Show all posts
Thursday, 30 October 2008
Friday, 10 October 2008
Day 64 - 78
Hi everyone. I'm going to have to post another of these "coming soon" posts but we both thought we should as something momentous has happened - we have arrived in Sicily! Woohoo! As mentioned the campsites closed on mass but we managed to locate a few open ones.
We've been blown away by the kindness and hospitality of the Italians in the south who, for whatever reason, seem much happier than there northern counterparts. When we've got another moment we'll post up details.
So, we continued the journey here by a mix of bikes and train (and ferry) which was much more satisfying than just doing it all by train. We don't feel quite so deflated now (although Jody is sick of cycling over Italian mountains....Sicily's flat...right?) and we have 3 1/2 weeks to explore this wonderful, massive island. The temperature here is around 30 I reckon and we've both been suprised by how green Calabria and Sicily are.
Sorry for another short post with bare-minimum details but we must research which camps are open and dicide which direction to travel (cw or ccw? - life here is tough man). To bring you up to speed though, here is where we've been:
Day 64 - Palinuro -> Marina di Camerotta (12km)
Day 65 - Marina di Camerotta -> Marina di Camerotta (0km)
Day 66 - Marina di Camerotta -> Marina di Camerotta (0km)
Yeah that's right - 2 days off! It was like a bank holiday weekend or something...
Day 67 - Marina di Camerotta -> Capo Vaticano (41km + train)
Day 68 - Capo Vaticano -> Tropea -> Capo Vaticano (21km)
Day 69 - Capo Vaticano -> Taureana (46km)
Day 70 - Taureana -> Rodia (SICILY!) (77km)
Day 71 - Rodia -> Rodia (10km)
Day 72 - Rodia -> Milazzo -> Rodia (64km)
Day 73 - Rodia -> Stromboli -> Rodia (0km)
Day 74 - Rodia -> Letojanni (77km)
Day 75 - Letojanni -> San Marco (24km)
Day 76 - San Marco -> Carruba (24km)
Day 77 - Carruba -> Catania (39km)
Day 78 - Catania -> Catania (0km)
Love to all.
Carlo e Joana
We've been blown away by the kindness and hospitality of the Italians in the south who, for whatever reason, seem much happier than there northern counterparts. When we've got another moment we'll post up details.
So, we continued the journey here by a mix of bikes and train (and ferry) which was much more satisfying than just doing it all by train. We don't feel quite so deflated now (although Jody is sick of cycling over Italian mountains....Sicily's flat...right?) and we have 3 1/2 weeks to explore this wonderful, massive island. The temperature here is around 30 I reckon and we've both been suprised by how green Calabria and Sicily are.
Sorry for another short post with bare-minimum details but we must research which camps are open and dicide which direction to travel (cw or ccw? - life here is tough man). To bring you up to speed though, here is where we've been:
Day 64 - Palinuro -> Marina di Camerotta (12km)
Day 65 - Marina di Camerotta -> Marina di Camerotta (0km)
Day 66 - Marina di Camerotta -> Marina di Camerotta (0km)
Yeah that's right - 2 days off! It was like a bank holiday weekend or something...
Day 67 - Marina di Camerotta -> Capo Vaticano (41km + train)
Day 68 - Capo Vaticano -> Tropea -> Capo Vaticano (21km)
Day 69 - Capo Vaticano -> Taureana (46km)
Day 70 - Taureana -> Rodia (SICILY!) (77km)
Day 71 - Rodia -> Rodia (10km)
Day 72 - Rodia -> Milazzo -> Rodia (64km)
Day 73 - Rodia -> Stromboli -> Rodia (0km)
Day 74 - Rodia -> Letojanni (77km)
Day 75 - Letojanni -> San Marco (24km)
Day 76 - San Marco -> Carruba (24km)
Day 77 - Carruba -> Catania (39km)
Day 78 - Catania -> Catania (0km)
Love to all.
Carlo e Joana
Thursday, 2 October 2008
Day 53 - 63
Hi all. Staying in a hotel tonight (ooo!!) and making the most of free internet. Posted up a few photos of the last 6 weeks or so so I hope you like. Having a spot of bother with our plans for Southern Italy at the moment as all the campsites seem to have closed at the end of September and we have been warned off free camping. So - although it is a welcome change to stay in a hotel after 2 months on the ground, we might be hopping on the train down to Sicily (as Sicilians still realise that it is warm enough for camping), and spending our time touring down there. We're a bit disappointed, but sure that Sicily will provide some enriching touring adventures!
Day 53 - Tavarnelle -> Siena (68km)
Lots of sights today. We visited San Gimignano, a medieval town with lots of towers which, when viewed from a distance, look like the skyscrapers of Manhattan. Then on to Monteriggioni with its uber stereotypical fortress walls (like a child would draw if you asked them to draw a castle). Saw a brief glimpse of Siena in the evening whilst looking for camp ground.
Day 54 - Siena -> Casciano (32km)
Tired today after hills of Chianti! We looked around Sienna in the AM. Enjoyed amazing gelato from "Nannini's" and looked around the Piazza del Campo. On to Casciano after that. Using this camp as a stepping stone to reach Monte Amiata tomorrow. Camp has amazing view though so well worth it!
Day 55 - Casciano -> Castel del Piano (60km)
Very very hilly day! Went up and down 1:5 hills on two occasions - had to get off and push on one climb. Saw (and smelt) hot springs at Bagni di Petriolo. Then spent last 2 hrs of the day going uphill! Castel del Piano had a town square with trees and gardens, don't see many of these in Italy. At camp we were befriended by kittens.
Day 56 - Castel del Piano -> Lago di Bolsena (62km)
After yesterdays climb we resolved not to visit any more campgrounds on the sides of mountains. No direct route off Mt. Amiata and the road that went around it went up and down more or less constantly. Tiring again! Once we reached the downhill though it lasted for around 20kms. Amazing views to the south. Last hill of the day darkened moods but sighting Lago Bolsena and easily finding "Camping Mario" lifted them again. Lake is a beauty.
After yesterdays climb we resolved not to visit any more campgrounds on the sides of mountains. No direct route off Mt. Amiata and the road that went around it went up and down more or less constantly. Tiring again! Once we reached the downhill though it lasted for around 20kms. Amazing views to the south. Last hill of the day darkened moods but sighting Lago Bolsena and easily finding "Camping Mario" lifted them again. Lake is a beauty.
Day 57 - Lago di Bolsena -> Lago di Bolsena (0km)
Rest day! Woohoo! High winds and lack of energy meant we barely moved 100ms all day. Glorious. Watched the lake and kept out of the wind.
Rest day! Woohoo! High winds and lack of energy meant we barely moved 100ms all day. Glorious. Watched the lake and kept out of the wind.
Day 58 - Lago di Bolsena -> Sorrento (39km + train ride)
Paid for yesterdays inaction with a mental day of travel. As we hadn't enjoyed city riding and knew that camps in the northern half of Italy closed after September, we decided to ditch Roma and Napoli and catch a train to Sorrento. Rode quickly to Viterbo where we caught the first of three trains to get us to our destination.
Paid for yesterdays inaction with a mental day of travel. As we hadn't enjoyed city riding and knew that camps in the northern half of Italy closed after September, we decided to ditch Roma and Napoli and catch a train to Sorrento. Rode quickly to Viterbo where we caught the first of three trains to get us to our destination.
Day 59 - Sorrento -> Marina del Cantone (26km)
Woke to glorious view of Vesuvio and the golfo di Napoli this morning. Explored Sorrento and crossed peninsular to Marina del Cantone by harder route than intended as roads were closed for an Automobillistica (rally?). Massive descent into Cantone's cove on a dead end road left us worry about tomorrows climb to get out...
Woke to glorious view of Vesuvio and the golfo di Napoli this morning. Explored Sorrento and crossed peninsular to Marina del Cantone by harder route than intended as roads were closed for an Automobillistica (rally?). Massive descent into Cantone's cove on a dead end road left us worry about tomorrows climb to get out...
Day 60 - Marina del Cantone -> Maiori (40km)
Climb out of cove was easier than expected. Thanks Tuscany! Your hills prepared us well. Had loads of fun riding the Amalfi coast's winding roads. Buses horns can be heard constantly as they hurtle round tiny blind corners. Had lunch in Positano where tourists and locals looked at us as if we were dressed as chickens. Fruitless search for camp meant our first night in a hotel! Good one though and not too expensive. We cooked our dinner on the balcony!
Climb out of cove was easier than expected. Thanks Tuscany! Your hills prepared us well. Had loads of fun riding the Amalfi coast's winding roads. Buses horns can be heard constantly as they hurtle round tiny blind corners. Had lunch in Positano where tourists and locals looked at us as if we were dressed as chickens. Fruitless search for camp meant our first night in a hotel! Good one though and not too expensive. We cooked our dinner on the balcony!
Day 61 - Maiori -> Salerno (31km)
Made a mockery of the hotels all you can eat breakfast buffet before going to Amalfi. Really lovely, if a little touristy. Tried Limoncello and found out how its made. Also had some delicious lemon gelato. On to Salerno after that where we stayed in a hostel so we could visit "Il Brigantte", a famous(?) trattoria to celebrate passing the 3000kms mark. Had a great night, the whole place got involved trying to translate the menu to us.
Made a mockery of the hotels all you can eat breakfast buffet before going to Amalfi. Really lovely, if a little touristy. Tried Limoncello and found out how its made. Also had some delicious lemon gelato. On to Salerno after that where we stayed in a hostel so we could visit "Il Brigantte", a famous(?) trattoria to celebrate passing the 3000kms mark. Had a great night, the whole place got involved trying to translate the menu to us.
Day 62 - Salerno -> Ogliastro Marina (86km)
Second breakfast buffet in two days! Had 2nd look at Salerno on way out. It's an interesting place - a real mixed bag. Coast between Salerno and Paestum is really trashy (we saw our first prostitute...out before lunch!) so we wasted no time getting through it. Shame really as when we took a look at the beach it was beautiful. Lunch of mozzarella in Paestum. This is the best mozzarella as it is made from the buffalo of the Sele plains, where we were! Searched from Agripoli to Ogliastro Marina for a campsite but they were all closed. Looking like we were in a bit of a pickle until we chanced on a campervan park where a very kind couple (Rosario & Ada) let us stay for the night. Within minutes of pulling up they had insisted we stay in their caravan and given us freshly baked biscuits and water. Hope it wasn't because we look so haggered!
Second breakfast buffet in two days! Had 2nd look at Salerno on way out. It's an interesting place - a real mixed bag. Coast between Salerno and Paestum is really trashy (we saw our first prostitute...out before lunch!) so we wasted no time getting through it. Shame really as when we took a look at the beach it was beautiful. Lunch of mozzarella in Paestum. This is the best mozzarella as it is made from the buffalo of the Sele plains, where we were! Searched from Agripoli to Ogliastro Marina for a campsite but they were all closed. Looking like we were in a bit of a pickle until we chanced on a campervan park where a very kind couple (Rosario & Ada) let us stay for the night. Within minutes of pulling up they had insisted we stay in their caravan and given us freshly baked biscuits and water. Hope it wasn't because we look so haggered!
Day 63 - Ogliastro Marina -> Palinuro
Rosario & Ada's generoisity continued with a coffee and more biscuits in their kitchen. Ada took a bit of a fancy to Charlie. We got a picture and said goodbye before heading off on another hilly day. At one point the road was possibly 1:3 as a landslide had been roughly patched over. Beautiful coastline in this national park though and the water is incredibly clear. Again we couldn't find a camp site and as Rosaria had warned us off free camping saying it wasn't safe we booked into another hotel. Oh well, we're the only guests and we've got an amazing view from our balcony (which we cooked dinner on again).
NB - Charlie's bike is now called Rosario in honour of his help in our hour of need!
Wednesday, 1 October 2008
Day 49 - 52
Day 49 - Lucca -> Vinci (70km)
Did a spot of sightseeing before leaving Lucca. Very nice place that I would like to visit with lots of money! Left after lunch and headed for the hills again. Passed through Vinci (where Leonardo is from) and headed high into the olive groves to stay in the Hills above Florence. A big old day again.
Day 50 - Vinci -> Florence (39km)
Rain today all the way to Florence. By the time we got to the city we were so bedraggled that even the hawkers didn't bother trying to sell us umbrellas. Was touch and go there for a while. Weather was not being good to us and we blew the day's budget buying a coffee and a sandwhich. But, we decided to look for the camp on the Michaelangelo Terrace, and stayed the night. We were even gladder when we met up with Bob and Barbara again completely by chance and spent another evening with them.
Day 51 - Florence -> Florence (0km)
Sun was shining today so we saw Florence in a whole new light. Visited 2 of the David replicas and the enormous Duomo. Various other sights of the city. Crossed the Ponte Vecchio (much easier this time without bikes) and eyed the mountains of gelato. Cooked dinner for B and B tonight in their van (ooo - 2 hobs simultaneously).
Day 52 - Florence -> Tavarnelle val di Pesa (62km)
Hills! By crikey. Left Florence to the south and visited Greve in Chianti, and its famous butchers. Met another couple of cycle tourers - doing it right with restaurants and b & b's. Decided to prolong timein Chianti as it was very beautiful. Meant doing a bit of a zigzag across to Tarvanelle. Hilly but not too many complaints in such beautiful countryside.
Saturday, 20 September 2008
Day 40 - 48
Day 40 - Menton -> Diano Marino (ITALY!!!) (62km)
We enjoyed our final french pastries before heading to the border crossing. We were kind of disapointed that there was no ceremony whatsoever involved in entering Italy. So as it stands, neither of us have any passport stamps indicating that we have even left the UK. As soon as we crossed the border things were definately different! Busy, hilly, bumpy roads, crazy traffic, scooters a-plenty. Hello Italy.
Day 41 - Diano Marino -> Verezzi (42km)
Busy traffic all around us again today, as the roaads in this part of the country are forced into a compact area. The coast is covered in 'paying beaches' where they are all fenced off. We found a free beach and enjoyed a swim. Stopped at Verezzi - where we had our own terraced pitch under some olive trees with a wonderful view.
Day 42 - Verezzi -> Verezzi (8km)
Our little terraced spot away from it all in the hills of Verezzi was so good we decided to stay another day. Did some much needed bike maintenance and enjoyed our wonderful view (will try and post a photo soon).
Day 43 - Verezzi -> Sestri Levante (63km)
Beautiful riding this morning - hilly and along a rocky coast. First stop was at Noli - a lovely little walled town with delicious aromas wafting out of every doorway. After rounding the next cape we saw the vista of Genova, and decided to catch a train right through it as traffic was intensifying again and doing our heads in!
Day 44 - Sestri Levante -> Levanto (48km)
Rainy riding this morning. Enjoyed some market shopping in Sestri Levante before heading over our first 'pass'. 3 hours of uphill riding and we were up in the clouds and over the top. Mainly downhill to Levanto, to be our base while we explored the Cinque Terre.
Day 45 - Levanto -> Cinque Terra -> Levanto (0km)
We enjoyed our final french pastries before heading to the border crossing. We were kind of disapointed that there was no ceremony whatsoever involved in entering Italy. So as it stands, neither of us have any passport stamps indicating that we have even left the UK. As soon as we crossed the border things were definately different! Busy, hilly, bumpy roads, crazy traffic, scooters a-plenty. Hello Italy.
Day 41 - Diano Marino -> Verezzi (42km)
Busy traffic all around us again today, as the roaads in this part of the country are forced into a compact area. The coast is covered in 'paying beaches' where they are all fenced off. We found a free beach and enjoyed a swim. Stopped at Verezzi - where we had our own terraced pitch under some olive trees with a wonderful view.
Day 42 - Verezzi -> Verezzi (8km)
Our little terraced spot away from it all in the hills of Verezzi was so good we decided to stay another day. Did some much needed bike maintenance and enjoyed our wonderful view (will try and post a photo soon).
Day 43 - Verezzi -> Sestri Levante (63km)
Beautiful riding this morning - hilly and along a rocky coast. First stop was at Noli - a lovely little walled town with delicious aromas wafting out of every doorway. After rounding the next cape we saw the vista of Genova, and decided to catch a train right through it as traffic was intensifying again and doing our heads in!
Day 44 - Sestri Levante -> Levanto (48km)
Rainy riding this morning. Enjoyed some market shopping in Sestri Levante before heading over our first 'pass'. 3 hours of uphill riding and we were up in the clouds and over the top. Mainly downhill to Levanto, to be our base while we explored the Cinque Terre.
Day 45 - Levanto -> Cinque Terra -> Levanto (0km)
Met Ethyl and Laurie - 2 cycle tourers who put us to shame - in Levanto, and enjoyed swapping stories for an evening. They had done over 7000kms since June, and their daily average distances were probably at least twice ours... Headed off in the morning to the Eastern end of the Cinque Terre and walked our way back. Some day off - we were exhausted by the end of it! It was very beautiful though.
Day 46 - Levanto -> Casola in Lunigiana (76km)
Hardest stretch of riding so far getting over the mountains after Levanto. Although not officially a pass we climbed 800m in 10km. Cold weather coincided with our turn inland and we chilled right off up in the mountains.
Day 47 - Casola -> Castelnuovo (43km)
More uphill today - stunning riding past little mountain towns with lots of church bells. Huge sheer faced peaks and another 800m pass. Followed 'El Serchio' river down to Castelnuovo where we made 2 more friends at the campsite. Bob and Barbara invited us to their cozy campervan, and we chatted and drank scotch for the evening. Nice and warm now! 
Day 48 - Castelnuovo -> Lucca (60km)
Past Devil's bridge and on to Lucca. Was fun and fast riding further down the Serchio valley. Pitched up in a campervan stop and went to investigate town. Charlie fell off his bike on arrival home tonight after too much wine! Drunkeness broke his fall!
Day 22 - 39
Hello again! Apologies for the month long delay. The net situation hasn't improved though so it may be a while until the next post. Anyhow, here we go...
Day 22 - Montricoux -> Laguepie (58km)
Lots of rain overnight and into morning. Stopped in farmers market in Montricoux and bought fruit and veg from the crustiest old dude we could find! Cycled through spectacular Aveyron gorges and over steepest climbs so far. Stopped in St. Antonin - full of English!
Day 23 - Laguepie -> Laguepie (0km)
We met up with Nurul (Jody's colleague) today! Laguepie is cool, small town relatively untouched by tourism. Just a boulodrome (for petanque) a couple of bars and a campsite really. Oh and a cool chataux.
Day 24 - Laguepie -> Realmont (62km)
Met Nurul again today, this time in Courdes Sur Ciel - possibly the most beautiful french town so far. Google it for pics now!!! Headed south through Albi (very cool cathedral here) but we were a bit too tired to fully appreciate it as it was quite late in the day. Very tough last 20kms to Realmont. Hilly riding today and we thought we could see the Pyranees in the distance.
Day 25 - Realmont -> Mazamet (49km)
Very hilly again today. Got to see Lautrec and have our most picturesque lunch to date, looking south at the Montaigne Noir - these are the mountains we thought were the Pyranees. They are not and we will have to go over them to get to Carcasonne. Bugger.
Day 26 - Mazamet -> Castres -> Mazamet (0km)
Met with Nurul for the last time today. Had a look around Mazamet but there wasn't much to see. Hopped on a train to Castres and had a lovely lunch by the river. Jody's pudding was cruely robbed by fate as the restaurant Madame cut her hand badly and had to close to go to hospital. Spent rest of the day easting pastries and chocolates.
Day 27 - Mazamet -> Villemoustaussou (53km)
Today we defeated the Montainge Noir! Much easier than we thought but the decent was clearly steeper so we were glad we were heading south. Stunning 5 degree temperature difference on the south side of the mountains. Like another country! We really can see the Pyranees now!!!
Day 28 - Villemoustaussou -> Lezignan (66km)
Feckin' hot today! Carcassone was cool but too busy to enjoy on our bikes. Attempted to follow Canal du Midi towards Mediterranean but path was unsealed so we ditched it. Saw a huge forest fire!
Day 29 - Lezignan -> Narbonne-Plage (56km)
Went through lots of cool little villages with groups of oldies sat in the squares chatting and waiting for food vans to arrive etc. Arrived at Med! Found campsite quickly as poss and spent PM on the beach. No sun burn this time!!!
Day 39 - Grasse -> Menton (41km)
Today we experienced the ridiculous wealth of Monaco and Monte Carlo. Apparantly we rode through the tunnel outside the casino that the Grand Prix passes. Cheese sandwhichs on the coast and then on advice we decided our final French stop should be Menton. A cute town on the border. Campground was on a massive hill and we were reluctant to head to town for dinner. Fortunately, we tried the campsite restaurant for our 2000kms and goodbye France celebration. Met 2 other cycle tourers and enjoyed fabulous views and great pizza. Thanks France - Bon voyage!!
Day 22 - Montricoux -> Laguepie (58km)
Lots of rain overnight and into morning. Stopped in farmers market in Montricoux and bought fruit and veg from the crustiest old dude we could find! Cycled through spectacular Aveyron gorges and over steepest climbs so far. Stopped in St. Antonin - full of English!
Day 23 - Laguepie -> Laguepie (0km)
We met up with Nurul (Jody's colleague) today! Laguepie is cool, small town relatively untouched by tourism. Just a boulodrome (for petanque) a couple of bars and a campsite really. Oh and a cool chataux.
Day 24 - Laguepie -> Realmont (62km)
Met Nurul again today, this time in Courdes Sur Ciel - possibly the most beautiful french town so far. Google it for pics now!!! Headed south through Albi (very cool cathedral here) but we were a bit too tired to fully appreciate it as it was quite late in the day. Very tough last 20kms to Realmont. Hilly riding today and we thought we could see the Pyranees in the distance.
Day 25 - Realmont -> Mazamet (49km)
Very hilly again today. Got to see Lautrec and have our most picturesque lunch to date, looking south at the Montaigne Noir - these are the mountains we thought were the Pyranees. They are not and we will have to go over them to get to Carcasonne. Bugger.
Day 26 - Mazamet -> Castres -> Mazamet (0km)
Met with Nurul for the last time today. Had a look around Mazamet but there wasn't much to see. Hopped on a train to Castres and had a lovely lunch by the river. Jody's pudding was cruely robbed by fate as the restaurant Madame cut her hand badly and had to close to go to hospital. Spent rest of the day easting pastries and chocolates.
Day 27 - Mazamet -> Villemoustaussou (53km)
Today we defeated the Montainge Noir! Much easier than we thought but the decent was clearly steeper so we were glad we were heading south. Stunning 5 degree temperature difference on the south side of the mountains. Like another country! We really can see the Pyranees now!!!
Day 28 - Villemoustaussou -> Lezignan (66km)
Feckin' hot today! Carcassone was cool but too busy to enjoy on our bikes. Attempted to follow Canal du Midi towards Mediterranean but path was unsealed so we ditched it. Saw a huge forest fire!
Day 29 - Lezignan -> Narbonne-Plage (56km)
Went through lots of cool little villages with groups of oldies sat in the squares chatting and waiting for food vans to arrive etc. Arrived at Med! Found campsite quickly as poss and spent PM on the beach. No sun burn this time!!!
Day 30 - Narbonne-Plage -> Portiragnes-Plage (46km)
Very hot again today (every day is round here though). Portiragnes-Plage is a very touristy place consisting mainly of campsites for Germans. We stayed out of necessity but the camp was a bit like disney land!
Day 31 - Portiragnes-Plage -> Frontignan-Plage (53km)
Oh my the tourists! Today was the end of the high season and we cycled through huge traffic jams of motorhomes and campervans heading home. Once clear we arrived in Sete (large fishing town) and had a seafood lunch by the harbour to celebrate 1000 miles! Saw water jousting (boats instead of horses) in the harbour. Very cool!
Day 32 - Frontignan-Plage -> Lunel (69km)
Saw first Flamingos today! Nearing the Carmargue now so hoping to see more. Mainly a travelling day today so kms passed quickly.
Day 33 - Lunel -> Arles (87km)
Made a dash across the Carmargue today to avoid plague of mosquitos that live there this time of year. Saw Black Bulls, Flamingos, rice fields and horses. Not so many Mosis though (thank god!). Finished the day in Arles which is a very nice place, compelte with Amphitheatre!.
Day 34 - Arles -> Giens (La Tour Fondue) (15km)
We decided to skip out of Arles although it meant missing the 'bull race' in the amphitheatre. Got a train from Arles to Hyeres so we could slip past the industrial nightmare that is Marseille. From here we cycled south down a peninsula to Giens and camped there. Thought about going to Porquerolle Island but decided to explore the peninsula instead.
Day 35 - Giens -> Giens (14km)
And so we had another rest day. Did all the washing and then headed off to find a nice beach for the afternoon. We ended up clambering down a jagged rock face to spend the afternoon in our own private cove. It was pretty sweet! Really beautiful stretch of coast with pine trees hugging onto the rocks.
Day 36 - Giens -> St. Clair (36km)
Headed off up the peninsula again and got to see some good flocks of flamingos. Enquiries found that a cycle path (or nar enough) existed most of the way to St Raphael. We abandoned plans for more roundabout route, and crossed along the cycle path heading east. It was a good choice, as we soon found St Clair - a beautiful little beach - not too busy with the south of france fever. Lunch break turned into a whole afternoon and we then camped at a farm camp in the village. Greated by the old farmer guy in his beret and underpants, we decided you couldn't get much more french than that!
Day 37 - St. Clair -> Ste. Maxime (73km)
The Cote d'Azur gets better and better! Perfect weather, the med sparkling on our right, a cooling breeze, nice. Got to St Tropez for lunch, and ogled the mega yachts, hoping that someone would invite us in for lunch. It was for the rich and famous and we stuck out a bit. St Maxime was more our style. We camped nearby.
Day 38 - Ste. Maxime -> Grasse (73km)
People reckoned we should check out Haute Provence so we headed for the hills. Spectacular views, but big hills killed most of our enthusiasm. We decided we had too far to travel each day to do it over punishing hills, so Grasse was our stop, and we planned on heading back to the coast.
Very hot again today (every day is round here though). Portiragnes-Plage is a very touristy place consisting mainly of campsites for Germans. We stayed out of necessity but the camp was a bit like disney land!
Day 31 - Portiragnes-Plage -> Frontignan-Plage (53km)
Oh my the tourists! Today was the end of the high season and we cycled through huge traffic jams of motorhomes and campervans heading home. Once clear we arrived in Sete (large fishing town) and had a seafood lunch by the harbour to celebrate 1000 miles! Saw water jousting (boats instead of horses) in the harbour. Very cool!
Day 32 - Frontignan-Plage -> Lunel (69km)
Saw first Flamingos today! Nearing the Carmargue now so hoping to see more. Mainly a travelling day today so kms passed quickly.
Day 33 - Lunel -> Arles (87km)
Made a dash across the Carmargue today to avoid plague of mosquitos that live there this time of year. Saw Black Bulls, Flamingos, rice fields and horses. Not so many Mosis though (thank god!). Finished the day in Arles which is a very nice place, compelte with Amphitheatre!.
Day 34 - Arles -> Giens (La Tour Fondue) (15km)
We decided to skip out of Arles although it meant missing the 'bull race' in the amphitheatre. Got a train from Arles to Hyeres so we could slip past the industrial nightmare that is Marseille. From here we cycled south down a peninsula to Giens and camped there. Thought about going to Porquerolle Island but decided to explore the peninsula instead.
Day 35 - Giens -> Giens (14km)
And so we had another rest day. Did all the washing and then headed off to find a nice beach for the afternoon. We ended up clambering down a jagged rock face to spend the afternoon in our own private cove. It was pretty sweet! Really beautiful stretch of coast with pine trees hugging onto the rocks.
Day 36 - Giens -> St. Clair (36km)
Headed off up the peninsula again and got to see some good flocks of flamingos. Enquiries found that a cycle path (or nar enough) existed most of the way to St Raphael. We abandoned plans for more roundabout route, and crossed along the cycle path heading east. It was a good choice, as we soon found St Clair - a beautiful little beach - not too busy with the south of france fever. Lunch break turned into a whole afternoon and we then camped at a farm camp in the village. Greated by the old farmer guy in his beret and underpants, we decided you couldn't get much more french than that!
Day 37 - St. Clair -> Ste. Maxime (73km)
The Cote d'Azur gets better and better! Perfect weather, the med sparkling on our right, a cooling breeze, nice. Got to St Tropez for lunch, and ogled the mega yachts, hoping that someone would invite us in for lunch. It was for the rich and famous and we stuck out a bit. St Maxime was more our style. We camped nearby.
Day 38 - Ste. Maxime -> Grasse (73km)
People reckoned we should check out Haute Provence so we headed for the hills. Spectacular views, but big hills killed most of our enthusiasm. We decided we had too far to travel each day to do it over punishing hills, so Grasse was our stop, and we planned on heading back to the coast.
Day 39 - Grasse -> Menton (41km)
Today we experienced the ridiculous wealth of Monaco and Monte Carlo. Apparantly we rode through the tunnel outside the casino that the Grand Prix passes. Cheese sandwhichs on the coast and then on advice we decided our final French stop should be Menton. A cute town on the border. Campground was on a massive hill and we were reluctant to head to town for dinner. Fortunately, we tried the campsite restaurant for our 2000kms and goodbye France celebration. Met 2 other cycle tourers and enjoyed fabulous views and great pizza. Thanks France - Bon voyage!!
Thursday, 21 August 2008
Day 16 - 21
Day 16 Flaujagues - Navarre (48km)
Left the lovely Flaujagues and headed alongthe Dordogne to St Foy (where you last heard from us). Didn'tleave town till late afternoon, and spent it riding through plum orchards, surrounded by the beatuiful fragrance of ripe plums. Managed to find a few strays for our bar bags. We decided to stay in a quiet woods - butmanaged to awaken the wild monster/dog thing that made frightening noises and didn't help us settle in. Not much sleep tonight!
Day 17 Navarre - Lagruere (52km)
Got out of the woods quickly and had our breakfast in Duras. Saw this amazing little hummingbird bug drinking nectar through its long rolled up proboscis from the town's flowers. Amazing little thing. Onwards through Marmonde, and we hit the Canal Lateral. Pleasantly surprised that it has a cycle path along the length of the canal (basically from the west to east of France) and we were happy to say goodbye to roads, traffic, and helmets. No steps, maps or intersections to manage - it was almost restful to ride!
Day 18 Lagruere - Lamagistere (74km)
Beautiful hot day today and we headed off for another day of canal riding. Very cute little 'port' towns are dotted along and make it interesting. Especially when the boulangerie is open!! Met a fellow cycle tourer who invited us to stay in the nature with him (Thmas) and his friend David. Thomas was heading opposite direction to us as he had lost a shoe and was going back to look for it. It was a pleasure and we appreciated seeing how the French do free camping. Turns out we had travelled through Thomas' village a few days earlier - improbable given the size of it - and of France!
Day 19 Lamagistere - StNicolas de la Grave (50km)
We said bye to our new friends and headed off. Stopped for a market a few miles down the way and Charlie blew the days budget on cheese. It was good though. Onwards and we found Thomas' shoe! Charlie thinks we ,ust bemeant to be his friend! Turns out Charlie's lost water bottle has provided a handy place for storing wine. We've been enjoying a bottle most nights of late - I find it makes my bed more comfortable! We did a wild loop today due to a missed bridge, but we survived, and woke up the next day rearing to go after a light day on the road.
Day 20 StNicolas de la Grave - Montricoux (67km)
Went fast today and we enjoyed being off the canal path; although easy, is more fun on the (little roads). We headed up the river Tarn and then the Aveyron. Have started eating a whole rock melon each day as they are on sale everywhere and its really hot. Got to Montricoux early and found a nice place to stay. Looking forward to rest day tomorrow - this one seems to have come around fast.
Day 21 Montricoux - Montricoux (18km)
Although a rest day we headed off to nearby village of Bruniquel - apparently one of the most beautiful of France. It was lovely place to look around, and a nice day to spend the day off even with the 18km. Few cars within the town, and lots of small streets with funny little homes and cafes etc. A large chataeu sits at the top of the town - giving it a bold profile as you climb up the hill to the village. Well worth a visit - especially without panniers!!
Left the lovely Flaujagues and headed alongthe Dordogne to St Foy (where you last heard from us). Didn'tleave town till late afternoon, and spent it riding through plum orchards, surrounded by the beatuiful fragrance of ripe plums. Managed to find a few strays for our bar bags. We decided to stay in a quiet woods - butmanaged to awaken the wild monster/dog thing that made frightening noises and didn't help us settle in. Not much sleep tonight!
Day 17 Navarre - Lagruere (52km)
Got out of the woods quickly and had our breakfast in Duras. Saw this amazing little hummingbird bug drinking nectar through its long rolled up proboscis from the town's flowers. Amazing little thing. Onwards through Marmonde, and we hit the Canal Lateral. Pleasantly surprised that it has a cycle path along the length of the canal (basically from the west to east of France) and we were happy to say goodbye to roads, traffic, and helmets. No steps, maps or intersections to manage - it was almost restful to ride!
Day 18 Lagruere - Lamagistere (74km)
Beautiful hot day today and we headed off for another day of canal riding. Very cute little 'port' towns are dotted along and make it interesting. Especially when the boulangerie is open!! Met a fellow cycle tourer who invited us to stay in the nature with him (Thmas) and his friend David. Thomas was heading opposite direction to us as he had lost a shoe and was going back to look for it. It was a pleasure and we appreciated seeing how the French do free camping. Turns out we had travelled through Thomas' village a few days earlier - improbable given the size of it - and of France!
Day 19 Lamagistere - StNicolas de la Grave (50km)
We said bye to our new friends and headed off. Stopped for a market a few miles down the way and Charlie blew the days budget on cheese. It was good though. Onwards and we found Thomas' shoe! Charlie thinks we ,ust bemeant to be his friend! Turns out Charlie's lost water bottle has provided a handy place for storing wine. We've been enjoying a bottle most nights of late - I find it makes my bed more comfortable! We did a wild loop today due to a missed bridge, but we survived, and woke up the next day rearing to go after a light day on the road.
Day 20 StNicolas de la Grave - Montricoux (67km)
Went fast today and we enjoyed being off the canal path; although easy, is more fun on the (little roads). We headed up the river Tarn and then the Aveyron. Have started eating a whole rock melon each day as they are on sale everywhere and its really hot. Got to Montricoux early and found a nice place to stay. Looking forward to rest day tomorrow - this one seems to have come around fast.
Day 21 Montricoux - Montricoux (18km)
Although a rest day we headed off to nearby village of Bruniquel - apparently one of the most beautiful of France. It was lovely place to look around, and a nice day to spend the day off even with the 18km. Few cars within the town, and lots of small streets with funny little homes and cafes etc. A large chataeu sits at the top of the town - giving it a bold profile as you climb up the hill to the village. Well worth a visit - especially without panniers!!
Saturday, 16 August 2008
Day 1 - 15
Hi everyone
So this whole weblog thing isn't as easy to update as we thought. Rural France doesn't have many Cybercafes you see... Anyhow, here's what we've been up to:
Day 1 - St. Malo -> Dinan (38km)
Very cute walled town. Had first stubbling conversation with old French lady eating water melon. Scarey ride over Barrage at Dinard. Sunny!!!
Day 5 - Ancenis -> Clisson (53km)
Very hot day! Lots of grapevines and hills. Jody found a tic in her leg and we saw first hornet - hmm. Clisson turned out to be a really nice town.
Day 6 - Clisson -> Piquet (99km)
Wow, 60kms before lunch! Clouds of minute flies which sqaushed when you brushed them off were an unwelcome addition to the day. Passed through Chateau Fromage (no cheese though) before heading to Piquet. Campsite no longer exists there so we wild camped on the banks of the river Yon. Really nice spot!
Day 7 - Piquet -> Esnandes (58km)
Thuderstorm in the night. Started seeing fields of sunflowers today and lots of buildings with shutters and whitewashed walls. Had been looking forward to mill-pond flat marais north of La Rochelle but mean crosswinf spoiled it! Called it a day in Esnandes and met Misha and Alice - newly wed english couple who invited us to dinner of shellfish and frites. Yum!
Day 8 - Esnandes -> Les Grenettes, Ile de Ré (38km)
Lots of strange, ramshackle private piers on the coast. Crossed to Ile de Ré over 3km long bridge! Jody was worried but bikes have their own lane so all good. Ile de Ré is known as the Paris of the west coast. Loads of bikes as its mainly flat.
Day 9 - Les Grenettes, Ile de Ré -> Rivedoux-Plage, Ile de Ré (8km)
Very sunny so we stayed in the island for another day. Spent most of the day relaxing on the beach. Charlie got quite sunburnt. Bummer.
Day 10 - Rivedoux-Plage, Ile de Ré -> Marennes-Plage (108km)
Crossed bqck to mqinlqnd to pass through La Rochelle. Met Robèrt, a 65 year old french roadie with a dodgy knee. He led us to the city, avoid hills, pointing out dangerous bumps in the path and stopping traffic for us. La Rochelle was beautiful. Struggled to find campground in the evening so kept pushing south. Passed through Brouage, an old fort town, still completely within the original walls. Charlie left his water bottle on one of them.
Day 11 - Marennes-Plage -> Royan (53km)
Late start but lovely day going through the foret de la coubre. The forest has a beautiful western coastal edge. 1000s of tourists on bikes ranging from 1yrs to 100yrs old! Out of the forest in Royan was not so nice but got out to a semi-rural camp ground.
Day 12 - Royan -> Jonzac (70km)
Left Royan quickly and found ourselves in Talmont - coqstql town with 12C church. Very windy! Also looked at Roman villa remains at le Fé. Jonzac is an odd town but cheap camping and disney-esque chateau saved it. Broke 50kmph according to bike computer!!!
Day 13 - Jonzac -> Vacher, River Palais (75km)
Lots of sunflowers today. Gorgeous perfiterole treat from patisserie followed by lunch in supermaché car park - can't have it all aye. Charlie got bitten by something which brought up a baby-sized lump on his forearm.
Day 14 - Vacher, River Palais -> Flaujagues (36km)
Sooooooo many vineyards today! Unfortunately no grapes ready to eat yet. Shame. Stopped in Castillon and had our first glimpse of the Dordogne. Cycled along it for 8km before stopping.
Day 15 - Flaujagues -> Flaujagues (0km)
Restday, hooryay! Camped 20ft from Dordogne so why move?
So, we're currently in Sainte Foy sur Dordogne and continuing south. Not sure, as usual, when we'll next see an internet cafe but we will update again when we do. Heading to Courdes next if you want to try and guess our route (good luck with that, we barely know!) and hoping to tuck into a few bottles of Bordeaux wine and continue the cheese-binge.
Lots of love
Jody and Charlie.
So this whole weblog thing isn't as easy to update as we thought. Rural France doesn't have many Cybercafes you see... Anyhow, here's what we've been up to:
Day 1 - St. Malo -> Dinan (38km)
Very cute walled town. Had first stubbling conversation with old French lady eating water melon. Scarey ride over Barrage at Dinard. Sunny!!!
Day 2 - Dinan -> Forét de Montfort (68km)
Old river port town (also walled). Lots of Tudor-like timber framed buildings. Lunch stop by beautiful lake (etang de neal). Met fellow cycle tourers - Sarah and Sophie, Brits - at a supermarché. They gave us brioche! First night wild camping in the forest!
Day 3 - Forét de Montfort -> Grand Fougeray (66km)
Lunch stop in Messac where we saw moustachioed artists painting canal. Only people on campground in Grand Fougeray. We went out for dinner and had savoury pancakes, coffee and crepe.
Day 4 - Grand Fougeray -> Ancenis (71km)
Aiming for the Loire we got going early and covered the distance by 4:30! Busy campground conplete with gangs of kids on bikes and tough looking guy listening to Dire Straights. Wandered around on the riverbank at sunset. Saw first grapevine, cacti and terracotta tiles!
Old river port town (also walled). Lots of Tudor-like timber framed buildings. Lunch stop by beautiful lake (etang de neal). Met fellow cycle tourers - Sarah and Sophie, Brits - at a supermarché. They gave us brioche! First night wild camping in the forest!
Day 3 - Forét de Montfort -> Grand Fougeray (66km)
Lunch stop in Messac where we saw moustachioed artists painting canal. Only people on campground in Grand Fougeray. We went out for dinner and had savoury pancakes, coffee and crepe.
Day 4 - Grand Fougeray -> Ancenis (71km)
Aiming for the Loire we got going early and covered the distance by 4:30! Busy campground conplete with gangs of kids on bikes and tough looking guy listening to Dire Straights. Wandered around on the riverbank at sunset. Saw first grapevine, cacti and terracotta tiles!
Day 5 - Ancenis -> Clisson (53km)
Very hot day! Lots of grapevines and hills. Jody found a tic in her leg and we saw first hornet - hmm. Clisson turned out to be a really nice town.
Day 6 - Clisson -> Piquet (99km)
Wow, 60kms before lunch! Clouds of minute flies which sqaushed when you brushed them off were an unwelcome addition to the day. Passed through Chateau Fromage (no cheese though) before heading to Piquet. Campsite no longer exists there so we wild camped on the banks of the river Yon. Really nice spot!
Day 7 - Piquet -> Esnandes (58km)
Thuderstorm in the night. Started seeing fields of sunflowers today and lots of buildings with shutters and whitewashed walls. Had been looking forward to mill-pond flat marais north of La Rochelle but mean crosswinf spoiled it! Called it a day in Esnandes and met Misha and Alice - newly wed english couple who invited us to dinner of shellfish and frites. Yum!
Day 8 - Esnandes -> Les Grenettes, Ile de Ré (38km)
Lots of strange, ramshackle private piers on the coast. Crossed to Ile de Ré over 3km long bridge! Jody was worried but bikes have their own lane so all good. Ile de Ré is known as the Paris of the west coast. Loads of bikes as its mainly flat.
Day 9 - Les Grenettes, Ile de Ré -> Rivedoux-Plage, Ile de Ré (8km)
Very sunny so we stayed in the island for another day. Spent most of the day relaxing on the beach. Charlie got quite sunburnt. Bummer.
Day 10 - Rivedoux-Plage, Ile de Ré -> Marennes-Plage (108km)
Crossed bqck to mqinlqnd to pass through La Rochelle. Met Robèrt, a 65 year old french roadie with a dodgy knee. He led us to the city, avoid hills, pointing out dangerous bumps in the path and stopping traffic for us. La Rochelle was beautiful. Struggled to find campground in the evening so kept pushing south. Passed through Brouage, an old fort town, still completely within the original walls. Charlie left his water bottle on one of them.
Day 11 - Marennes-Plage -> Royan (53km)
Late start but lovely day going through the foret de la coubre. The forest has a beautiful western coastal edge. 1000s of tourists on bikes ranging from 1yrs to 100yrs old! Out of the forest in Royan was not so nice but got out to a semi-rural camp ground.
Day 12 - Royan -> Jonzac (70km)
Left Royan quickly and found ourselves in Talmont - coqstql town with 12C church. Very windy! Also looked at Roman villa remains at le Fé. Jonzac is an odd town but cheap camping and disney-esque chateau saved it. Broke 50kmph according to bike computer!!!
Day 13 - Jonzac -> Vacher, River Palais (75km)
Lots of sunflowers today. Gorgeous perfiterole treat from patisserie followed by lunch in supermaché car park - can't have it all aye. Charlie got bitten by something which brought up a baby-sized lump on his forearm.
Day 14 - Vacher, River Palais -> Flaujagues (36km)
Sooooooo many vineyards today! Unfortunately no grapes ready to eat yet. Shame. Stopped in Castillon and had our first glimpse of the Dordogne. Cycled along it for 8km before stopping.
Day 15 - Flaujagues -> Flaujagues (0km)
Restday, hooryay! Camped 20ft from Dordogne so why move?
So, we're currently in Sainte Foy sur Dordogne and continuing south. Not sure, as usual, when we'll next see an internet cafe but we will update again when we do. Heading to Courdes next if you want to try and guess our route (good luck with that, we barely know!) and hoping to tuck into a few bottles of Bordeaux wine and continue the cheese-binge.
Lots of love
Jody and Charlie.
Tuesday, 5 August 2008
Fritterly - Day 1-4
Greetings from France! The keyboard on this computer is very strangley arranged so this will be a brief post to let everyone know that we are alive. Also we havent had breakfast yet!
So far we have covered 250km and are currently in Ancenis - a town in the Loire valley, 30kms east of Nantes. In the past 4 days we passed through St. Malo, Dinan, Forét de Montfort (where we camped in the wild!), Grand Fougeray and Ancenis. I think that we have eaten our body weight in cheese and croissants but havent felt our appetite for them wane yet. The weather has been mixed but has been good enough to give me pink knees! Jody just soakes it all up as usual...
We aim to be in La Rochelle by Friday evening where the plan is to not really do any cycling for a couple of days. This should hopefully give us the chance to do some proper blog posts but until then this is all you are getting! We have croissants to eat after all...
Love
J and C
So far we have covered 250km and are currently in Ancenis - a town in the Loire valley, 30kms east of Nantes. In the past 4 days we passed through St. Malo, Dinan, Forét de Montfort (where we camped in the wild!), Grand Fougeray and Ancenis. I think that we have eaten our body weight in cheese and croissants but havent felt our appetite for them wane yet. The weather has been mixed but has been good enough to give me pink knees! Jody just soakes it all up as usual...
We aim to be in La Rochelle by Friday evening where the plan is to not really do any cycling for a couple of days. This should hopefully give us the chance to do some proper blog posts but until then this is all you are getting! We have croissants to eat after all...
Love
J and C
Friday, 18 July 2008
The Cornish Way - Day 6
Day 6 - Treyarnon Bay - Trevarion Bay (7 miles)
We woke up to weather which was true to forecast - really horrible. The camp ground wasn't the nicest though so we decided to pack up and move on, conscious that we had a train to catch in Truro the following day. We rode down to Trennance, and by then, the weather had properly kicked off. The wind was howling, and rain was following suit. We got some supplies from the shop, and then decided to try and sit out the storm in a little cafe on the beach front. About 2 hours later, and the weather had not lifted at all, and we learnt from the cafe that the Jack Johnson concert was going to be just a couple of miles away at Watergate Bay the following night, and that camp grounds might be quite busy. With this in mind, and being quite keen to get into our tent and out of the weather, we hit the road, and stopped at the first camp ground we found at Trevarnan Bay.
We spent quite a bit of time pitching the tent, and making sure it would hold strong. We were quite pleased, because we watched another couple trying for an hour or so to pitch their tent, and ended up giving up and driving away. Woohoo - our tent wins!!
Sorry to say, but thats about all we've got say about day 6. No photos either due to horrible horrible weather.
We woke up to weather which was true to forecast - really horrible. The camp ground wasn't the nicest though so we decided to pack up and move on, conscious that we had a train to catch in Truro the following day. We rode down to Trennance, and by then, the weather had properly kicked off. The wind was howling, and rain was following suit. We got some supplies from the shop, and then decided to try and sit out the storm in a little cafe on the beach front. About 2 hours later, and the weather had not lifted at all, and we learnt from the cafe that the Jack Johnson concert was going to be just a couple of miles away at Watergate Bay the following night, and that camp grounds might be quite busy. With this in mind, and being quite keen to get into our tent and out of the weather, we hit the road, and stopped at the first camp ground we found at Trevarnan Bay.
We spent quite a bit of time pitching the tent, and making sure it would hold strong. We were quite pleased, because we watched another couple trying for an hour or so to pitch their tent, and ended up giving up and driving away. Woohoo - our tent wins!!
Sorry to say, but thats about all we've got say about day 6. No photos either due to horrible horrible weather.
Tuesday, 15 July 2008
The Cornish Way - Day 5
Day 5 - Treveor - Treyarnon Bay (35 miles)
Our fuel ran out, and we missed the porridge cauldron that usually gets us going in the mornings. Fortunately we had stocked up on 'emergency bars' so we chomped them down and got moving to the nearest biggish town, Mevagissey, to buy some fuel and other necessities. After delays due to 'Kath's Kabin' (the local shop which has all things useful) not opening until 10:30, we had a look around, and partook in some baked goods. Mevagissey was once a fairly busy little fishing town, but now from the looks of it, most of its business comes from tourism.
From here where treked up to the Lost Gard
ens of Heligan, an amazing property which was 'lost' when the gardening staff went off to war - many never returning. The amazing property was rediscovered, and over time has been re-established to resemble what it once was. A highlight for me was seeing the perfectly manicured vegetable and flower patches, and also the pineapple pit. The equipment for the friendly horticultural rivalry which was pineapple growing in Victorian times was rediscovered. The method uses manure to heat a warm pineapple pit suitable for growing pineapples in the english climate. Apparantly the aim was to grow a pineapple for christmas.
The current staff are trying to redevelop the skills of pineapple growing through trial and error, as the tricks of it were sadly lost with the earlier staff. This is thought to be the only surviving pineapple pit in the UK.
New Zealand plants featured quite strongly in the gardens, and there is even a photo of the head gardener outside a whare in Pukekura Park, New Plymouth, New Zealand in the early 1900s. What he was doing there, I have no idea!
From Heligan we headed for St Austell, where we tried out our skills at catching trains with bicycles. All went off without a hitch, and a quick two stop journey meant we had time to ride out the beautiful Camel Trail (along the River Camel) a blissful 12 flat miles out to the coast.
We sadly rode past Rick Stein's (one of our food heroes) posh seafood restaurant in Padstow and went for fish and chips on the docks. After 30 odd miles and 3 hours walking around the gardens, our legs told us to stop and have a beer, but night was closing in, so we headed off for a campground on the coast. We finally arrived and pitched up in a bit of a bleak spot at Treyarnon at about 9:30pm, after riding past a number of caravan only parks. But, it was perfect for putting our feet up after a long day.
Our fuel ran out, and we missed the porridge cauldron that usually gets us going in the mornings. Fortunately we had stocked up on 'emergency bars' so we chomped them down and got moving to the nearest biggish town, Mevagissey, to buy some fuel and other necessities. After delays due to 'Kath's Kabin' (the local shop which has all things useful) not opening until 10:30, we had a look around, and partook in some baked goods. Mevagissey was once a fairly busy little fishing town, but now from the looks of it, most of its business comes from tourism.
From here where treked up to the Lost Gard
ens of Heligan, an amazing property which was 'lost' when the gardening staff went off to war - many never returning. The amazing property was rediscovered, and over time has been re-established to resemble what it once was. A highlight for me was seeing the perfectly manicured vegetable and flower patches, and also the pineapple pit. The equipment for the friendly horticultural rivalry which was pineapple growing in Victorian times was rediscovered. The method uses manure to heat a warm pineapple pit suitable for growing pineapples in the english climate. Apparantly the aim was to grow a pineapple for christmas.
The current staff are trying to redevelop the skills of pineapple growing through trial and error, as the tricks of it were sadly lost with the earlier staff. This is thought to be the only surviving pineapple pit in the UK.New Zealand plants featured quite strongly in the gardens, and there is even a photo of the head gardener outside a whare in Pukekura Park, New Plymouth, New Zealand in the early 1900s. What he was doing there, I have no idea!
From Heligan we headed for St Austell, where we tried out our skills at catching trains with bicycles. All went off without a hitch, and a quick two stop journey meant we had time to ride out the beautiful Camel Trail (along the River Camel) a blissful 12 flat miles out to the coast.
We sadly rode past Rick Stein's (one of our food heroes) posh seafood restaurant in Padstow and went for fish and chips on the docks. After 30 odd miles and 3 hours walking around the gardens, our legs told us to stop and have a beer, but night was closing in, so we headed off for a campground on the coast. We finally arrived and pitched up in a bit of a bleak spot at Treyarnon at about 9:30pm, after riding past a number of caravan only parks. But, it was perfect for putting our feet up after a long day.
Monday, 14 July 2008
The Cornish Way - Day 4
Day 4 - Chacewater to Treveor (26 Miles)
So it turns out that 42 miles really takes it
out of novice cycle tourers...
But we were up and at 'em fairly early and relieved to find that it wasn't bucketing down again. After navigating some pretty challenging signage issues, we made it through Carnon Downs, Playing Place, and eventually to the King Harry Ferry, a small vehicle ferry operating by a chain pulling mechanism across what we found out later is one of the deepest inlets in the world. This was a nice chance to take a breather before tackling some more brutal hills.
All I can really remember about this stretch of road was ridiculous hills!
We stopped briefly at Portloe, a picturesque little fishing village where people were buying fish straight from the tiny fishing boats, and ladies were making lovely watercolours of the scenery.
We stopped later for the most expensive icecream in the world at Portholland, which we found out later is home to a grand garden of the county Caerhays Castle Gardens. However, we had no time to visit - more rain clouds were a-brewing, and we realised we needed to set up camp and fast if we were going to get out of the rain in time.
Treveor farm was our camping ground of choice. Friendly people and nice farmy smells! At £7 a night it was a bargain.
So it turns out that 42 miles really takes it
out of novice cycle tourers...But we were up and at 'em fairly early and relieved to find that it wasn't bucketing down again. After navigating some pretty challenging signage issues, we made it through Carnon Downs, Playing Place, and eventually to the King Harry Ferry, a small vehicle ferry operating by a chain pulling mechanism across what we found out later is one of the deepest inlets in the world. This was a nice chance to take a breather before tackling some more brutal hills.
All I can really remember about this stretch of road was ridiculous hills!
We stopped briefly at Portloe, a picturesque little fishing village where people were buying fish straight from the tiny fishing boats, and ladies were making lovely watercolours of the scenery.We stopped later for the most expensive icecream in the world at Portholland, which we found out later is home to a grand garden of the county Caerhays Castle Gardens. However, we had no time to visit - more rain clouds were a-brewing, and we realised we needed to set up camp and fast if we were going to get out of the rain in time.
Treveor farm was our camping ground of choice. Friendly people and nice farmy smells! At £7 a night it was a bargain.
Saturday, 12 July 2008
The Cornish Way - Day 3
Day 3 - Treen to Chacewater (42 miles)
Apologies for the lack of photos today. It always seemed to be raining when something nice was happening! Here is a picutre of Treen to keep you going:
This was the first day our mileage was recorded by our odometer which, in true McCaig fashion, was fitted two days late. In what seemed to be becoming a recurring theme, day 3 kicked off at about 10am with a very steep hill. Cold legs and stomachs heavily laden with porridge aren't the best things to get you up such slopes but we managed. It was on this day we started to feel like we were getting stronger which was a great morale booster. Having taken the alternative route the previous day we decided to tackle the coastal road this time (mainly due to the knowledge that the steep bit would be downhill). Following this route we passed through the very cute Mousehole where a friendly postie told us the best Cornish Pasties to be had were in Marazion. This was, conveniently, just the other side of the bay, past Penzance. Anticipating hunger, we made straight for the promised pasty shop, arriving there at about midday. The postie was not wrong! We bought two 'small' pasties, each as big as your face. This left us wondering what the hell 'large' looked like! After gobbling them down whilst watching the tide come in around St Michaels Mount we hit the road in the direction of Truro.
After passing through Hayle, the heavens opened. We took refuge in the porch of Gwinear church waiting for it to pass. Jody said "bastard" whilst we were sat there which clearly angered the Lord. He saw fit to keep the rain pouring for the rest of the day! Realising this, we donned our ponchos and headed off once again. We passed through Camborne and Redruth where the landscape was peppered with relics of an industrial past. Chimneys could be seen all around attached to small, derelict buildings. These were engine houses which were used to pump water (either in or out, we're not sure) of tin mines. Despite the rain, we found the riding to be very enjoyable, apart from getting completely lost near St. Day and managing to come around in a 4 mile circle, oops!
Back on track, it was mind over matter (or 'robot legs' as Jody called them) that got us up the last long hill to Chacewater campsite. As we arrived, just before 6pm, the skies cleared and, our penance served, the sun came streaming through. To celebrate we headed into the village and had dinner in a pub before hitting the hay. The odometer read just over 70km! This is the furthest we had ever riden and, given the landscape and weather, felt like a huge accomplishment. We rule Cornwall.
Apologies for the lack of photos today. It always seemed to be raining when something nice was happening! Here is a picutre of Treen to keep you going:This was the first day our mileage was recorded by our odometer which, in true McCaig fashion, was fitted two days late. In what seemed to be becoming a recurring theme, day 3 kicked off at about 10am with a very steep hill. Cold legs and stomachs heavily laden with porridge aren't the best things to get you up such slopes but we managed. It was on this day we started to feel like we were getting stronger which was a great morale booster. Having taken the alternative route the previous day we decided to tackle the coastal road this time (mainly due to the knowledge that the steep bit would be downhill). Following this route we passed through the very cute Mousehole where a friendly postie told us the best Cornish Pasties to be had were in Marazion. This was, conveniently, just the other side of the bay, past Penzance. Anticipating hunger, we made straight for the promised pasty shop, arriving there at about midday. The postie was not wrong! We bought two 'small' pasties, each as big as your face. This left us wondering what the hell 'large' looked like! After gobbling them down whilst watching the tide come in around St Michaels Mount we hit the road in the direction of Truro.
After passing through Hayle, the heavens opened. We took refuge in the porch of Gwinear church waiting for it to pass. Jody said "bastard" whilst we were sat there which clearly angered the Lord. He saw fit to keep the rain pouring for the rest of the day! Realising this, we donned our ponchos and headed off once again. We passed through Camborne and Redruth where the landscape was peppered with relics of an industrial past. Chimneys could be seen all around attached to small, derelict buildings. These were engine houses which were used to pump water (either in or out, we're not sure) of tin mines. Despite the rain, we found the riding to be very enjoyable, apart from getting completely lost near St. Day and managing to come around in a 4 mile circle, oops!
Back on track, it was mind over matter (or 'robot legs' as Jody called them) that got us up the last long hill to Chacewater campsite. As we arrived, just before 6pm, the skies cleared and, our penance served, the sun came streaming through. To celebrate we headed into the village and had dinner in a pub before hitting the hay. The odometer read just over 70km! This is the furthest we had ever riden and, given the landscape and weather, felt like a huge accomplishment. We rule Cornwall.
Wednesday, 9 July 2008
The Cornish Way - Day 2
Day 2 - Gwithian to Treen (32 miles)
Our beds were really comfortable and we woke up rearing to go
for a bike ride (luckily). Set off after a huge trangia cauldren of porridge, and headed through to Hayle, and suddenly popped out at the south coast - looking right at Mount St Michael. A quick stop at Penzance, and we carried on - heading for lands end. We decided to take the National Cycle Network alternative route "avoiding steep coastal road" and pushed our bikes up a hill for half an hour or so, but from then on, it was plan riding, and we got all the way to the beautiful Sennen Cove.
We didn't go to the town, but set up on the cliff top overlooking the Whitsand Bay. Whipped out the trangia for a quick cuppa, and then fell asleep in the sun!! Lands End was just a few miles away, so we went and checked it out, and were astounded to find that there is a shopping centre - like a weird mall of souvineers right at the end of the country.
After the delights of Lands End we headed for Treen, where we found a lovely little campground on the cliffs of the sickeningly cute little village. A coastal path follows the tops of the cliffs, and provides views down to the imposing Logan Rock and into beautiful secluded golden beaches. We had a lovely evening chat with some Dutch cycle tourers who scoped us out as we entered the campground. We were very proud when they told us how impressed they were by how little gear we were travelling with. Got a few handy hints from those guys too - and have since been off and bought some nice new fleeces like theirs, which we were eyeing enviously in the cool Cornish evening. We were sorry to leave Treen, but our plans (and advance fare train tickets) required we set off straight after porridge in the morning. Looking forward to some more flexibility in Fritterly.
for a bike ride (luckily). Set off after a huge trangia cauldren of porridge, and headed through to Hayle, and suddenly popped out at the south coast - looking right at Mount St Michael. A quick stop at Penzance, and we carried on - heading for lands end. We decided to take the National Cycle Network alternative route "avoiding steep coastal road" and pushed our bikes up a hill for half an hour or so, but from then on, it was plan riding, and we got all the way to the beautiful Sennen Cove.We didn't go to the town, but set up on the cliff top overlooking the Whitsand Bay. Whipped out the trangia for a quick cuppa, and then fell asleep in the sun!! Lands End was just a few miles away, so we went and checked it out, and were astounded to find that there is a shopping centre - like a weird mall of souvineers right at the end of the country.
After the delights of Lands End we headed for Treen, where we found a lovely little campground on the cliffs of the sickeningly cute little village. A coastal path follows the tops of the cliffs, and provides views down to the imposing Logan Rock and into beautiful secluded golden beaches. We had a lovely evening chat with some Dutch cycle tourers who scoped us out as we entered the campground. We were very proud when they told us how impressed they were by how little gear we were travelling with. Got a few handy hints from those guys too - and have since been off and bought some nice new fleeces like theirs, which we were eyeing enviously in the cool Cornish evening. We were sorry to leave Treen, but our plans (and advance fare train tickets) required we set off straight after porridge in the morning. Looking forward to some more flexibility in Fritterly.Monday, 7 July 2008
The Cornish Way - Day 1
We've been very busy of late, mainly due to how busy we are finalising plans etc, but somehow managed to fit in 7 days of cycling in Cornwall. This was our dry-run for Fritterly and was our first ever cycling / camping holiday. Cornwall would either make us or break us. Here's how we got on...
Day 1 - (Bristol to) Truro to Gwithian (18 miles)
Our train left Bristol at 8:30 so it was an early start - and it was raining. It's a 4 hour journey from Bristol to Truro but its a pretty route so it passed fairly quickly. The rain had stopped by the time we arrived but it was still overcast and cold as we ventured out of the station and looked for the national cycle network signs. Cornwall threw it's first test at us straight away. The hill out of Truro would be a pain at the best of times but with heavily loaded panniers and cold legs it was a killer. As it happens it set the tone for the rest of the Cornish roads quite nicely! Once we got going things were easier though and the beautiful views easily make up for the effort.
Our first stop was the small seaside town of Portreath. By the time we got there the sun was blazing (although the wind was howling) so we parked up next to the beach and enjoyed an icecream. After making the ascent back to the cliff top from sea-level we continued south west to the St. Ives bay and called it a day at the Churchtown campsite in Gwithian.
This campsite is really good and we'd recommend it to anyone passing through the area. A five minute stroll through the sand dunes leads you to a lovely beach with a fantastic view of the sunset. We broke out the Trangia and cooked our first meal and cup of tea before sliding into a welcome slumber.
Day 1 - (Bristol to) Truro to Gwithian (18 miles)
Our train left Bristol at 8:30 so it was an early start - and it was raining. It's a 4 hour journey from Bristol to Truro but its a pretty route so it passed fairly quickly. The rain had stopped by the time we arrived but it was still overcast and cold as we ventured out of the station and looked for the national cycle network signs. Cornwall threw it's first test at us straight away. The hill out of Truro would be a pain at the best of times but with heavily loaded panniers and cold legs it was a killer. As it happens it set the tone for the rest of the Cornish roads quite nicely! Once we got going things were easier though and the beautiful views easily make up for the effort.
Our first stop was the small seaside town of Portreath. By the time we got there the sun was blazing (although the wind was howling) so we parked up next to the beach and enjoyed an icecream. After making the ascent back to the cliff top from sea-level we continued south west to the St. Ives bay and called it a day at the Churchtown campsite in Gwithian.
This campsite is really good and we'd recommend it to anyone passing through the area. A five minute stroll through the sand dunes leads you to a lovely beach with a fantastic view of the sunset. We broke out the Trangia and cooked our first meal and cup of tea before sliding into a welcome slumber.Sunday, 25 May 2008
Cotswold capers: The Tetbury challenge!
So, its another long overdue post! And this time I'm doing the typing rather than just sitting and watching Jody do it. Anyway...On 10th May we took our bikes, newly fitted with tear-jerkingly uncomfortable brooks saddles, on their, and our, longest journeys so far to visit Tom, Lou, Lucy and Jemma (my brother, his partner and their children for those who don't know). We took single lane tracks through some lovely Cotswold countryside, hardly ever coming across other vehicles. The weather was great although this did mean we got through our water fairly quickly. Luckily we were able to make a couple of pit stops at pubs along the way where we refilled our bottles with water and our stomachs with crisps and shandy.
After a lovely evening and following morning with the Berrington-Fagons (which included a 'full tetbury breakfast') we departed. Returning on a slightly different route (allowing us to visit
different pubs) we cycled past field after field of flowering oil seed rape. Very picturesque! As a final bonus we got to ride back to Bristol straight into a BBQ with Chris & Sarah (another brother and his partner). Just what you need after a long ride!This time www.mapmyride.co.uk didn't disappoint. All in, we did just over 60 miles over the weekend. Good stuff.
Monday, 14 April 2008
Humble abode
Been a while - but we've finally got around to putting another post on the blog. It finally stopped raining long enough for us to pitch our new tent. Went down to the local park (note the lovely houses in the background - we live in quite a posh area) and pitched it on Sunday. Some local kids were quite excited by the prospect of us possibly camping in the park, but it was simply a trial run.
Despite appearances the tent is quite roomy and we're confident that we'll be able to spend 3 months in it without driving each other mental (probably).
In other news:
- Charlie now has a new (well new to him) bike. Pictures to follow.
- Last weekend (08/04) we cycled to Yate and back (with a brief 5 hour lunch stop with friends). Our optimistic estimates of distance (initially 40 miles) were cruelly crushed by the tediously accurate people of www.mapmyride.co.uk. Turns out we only did 30 miles return. Oh well. 30 miles is still good in our books.
Coming soon: The Tetbury Challenge!!!
Sunday, 17 February 2008
There and back again
Visited the Bristol - Bath old railway path again, but this time made it all the way to Bath and back again. Didn't leave home until mid-day and had planned to go and do some work at the allotment, but found that the ground was frozen solid.
So we ended up riding all the way to Bath and then turned around and came all the way home again without even stopping for so much as a pint.
A lovely but cold day.
Sunday, 10 February 2008
Going the distance
Yesterday was our first test.
We were feeling slightly nervous as we embarked on our first 'long-distance' ride. Bath was our destination, 17 miles along the Bristol Bath old railway path.
But, we shouldn't have worried! We really enjoyed the ride, and managed the distance in about an hour and a half. So - we are both feeling confident that we are not completely out of our depth with our summer plans.
The path is cool, and if anyone wants to do something nice of an afternoon I would thoroughly recommend it. The path runs along an old railway, and there are a few interesting old dinosaurs to see as you go along. Also, some people have started up cute little cafes in some of the tiny little stations along the way. Very cool.
We even contemplated riding the 17 miles home again, but decided that might be a good goal for next time, and caught the train home. I think it might be a regular jaunt. Woohoo - feels like we are on our way!!!
We were feeling slightly nervous as we embarked on our first 'long-distance' ride. Bath was our destination, 17 miles along the Bristol Bath old railway path.
But, we shouldn't have worried! We really enjoyed the ride, and managed the distance in about an hour and a half. So - we are both feeling confident that we are not completely out of our depth with our summer plans.
The path is cool, and if anyone wants to do something nice of an afternoon I would thoroughly recommend it. The path runs along an old railway, and there are a few interesting old dinosaurs to see as you go along. Also, some people have started up cute little cafes in some of the tiny little stations along the way. Very cool.
We even contemplated riding the 17 miles home again, but decided that might be a good goal for next time, and caught the train home. I think it might be a regular jaunt. Woohoo - feels like we are on our way!!!
Wednesday, 6 February 2008
Rough Route
Here's a link to our proposed route: http://tinyurl.com/2jz7ja (may take a little while to load)
This is only roughly plotted on Google maps so definitely won't be the final route but it shows what we're thinking of. Google estimates the distance as 3,216 km (just under 2000 miles)! Spread over 3 months this works out at an average of 20 miles per day - it seems like a much smaller distance if you say it like that!
If any of you lovely people reading this have family or friends along this route feel free to let us know! (Only if they've got a spare room or a space in the garden though...we don't really care about your families or friends)
The route shown is actually backwards - we will start in Cherbourg and finish in Palermo. Originally we were planning on going in the other direction (hence the backwards route) but realised that it would probably be better to chase the summer south than start cycling in Sicily, in August. Also heading south means you're going downhill, right?
This is only roughly plotted on Google maps so definitely won't be the final route but it shows what we're thinking of. Google estimates the distance as 3,216 km (just under 2000 miles)! Spread over 3 months this works out at an average of 20 miles per day - it seems like a much smaller distance if you say it like that!
If any of you lovely people reading this have family or friends along this route feel free to let us know! (Only if they've got a spare room or a space in the garden though...we don't really care about your families or friends)
The route shown is actually backwards - we will start in Cherbourg and finish in Palermo. Originally we were planning on going in the other direction (hence the backwards route) but realised that it would probably be better to chase the summer south than start cycling in Sicily, in August. Also heading south means you're going downhill, right?
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