Hi all. Staying in a hotel tonight (ooo!!) and making the most of free internet. Posted up a few photos of the last 6 weeks or so so I hope you like. Having a spot of bother with our plans for Southern Italy at the moment as all the campsites seem to have closed at the end of September and we have been warned off free camping. So - although it is a welcome change to stay in a hotel after 2 months on the ground, we might be hopping on the train down to Sicily (as Sicilians still realise that it is warm enough for camping), and spending our time touring down there. We're a bit disappointed, but sure that Sicily will provide some enriching touring adventures!
Day 53 - Tavarnelle -> Siena (68km)
Lots of sights today. We visited San Gimignano, a medieval town with lots of towers which, when viewed from a distance, look like the skyscrapers of Manhattan. Then on to Monteriggioni with its uber stereotypical fortress walls (like a child would draw if you asked them to draw a castle). Saw a brief glimpse of Siena in the evening whilst looking for camp ground.
Day 54 - Siena -> Casciano (32km)
Tired today after hills of Chianti! We looked around Sienna in the AM. Enjoyed amazing gelato from "Nannini's" and looked around the Piazza del Campo. On to Casciano after that. Using this camp as a stepping stone to reach Monte Amiata tomorrow. Camp has amazing view though so well worth it!
Day 55 - Casciano -> Castel del Piano (60km)
Very very hilly day! Went up and down 1:5 hills on two occasions - had to get off and push on one climb. Saw (and smelt) hot springs at Bagni di Petriolo. Then spent last 2 hrs of the day going uphill! Castel del Piano had a town square with trees and gardens, don't see many of these in Italy. At camp we were befriended by kittens.
Day 56 - Castel del Piano -> Lago di Bolsena (62km)
After yesterdays climb we resolved not to visit any more campgrounds on the sides of mountains. No direct route off Mt. Amiata and the road that went around it went up and down more or less constantly. Tiring again! Once we reached the downhill though it lasted for around 20kms. Amazing views to the south. Last hill of the day darkened moods but sighting Lago Bolsena and easily finding "Camping Mario" lifted them again. Lake is a beauty.
After yesterdays climb we resolved not to visit any more campgrounds on the sides of mountains. No direct route off Mt. Amiata and the road that went around it went up and down more or less constantly. Tiring again! Once we reached the downhill though it lasted for around 20kms. Amazing views to the south. Last hill of the day darkened moods but sighting Lago Bolsena and easily finding "Camping Mario" lifted them again. Lake is a beauty.
Day 57 - Lago di Bolsena -> Lago di Bolsena (0km)
Rest day! Woohoo! High winds and lack of energy meant we barely moved 100ms all day. Glorious. Watched the lake and kept out of the wind.
Rest day! Woohoo! High winds and lack of energy meant we barely moved 100ms all day. Glorious. Watched the lake and kept out of the wind.
Day 58 - Lago di Bolsena -> Sorrento (39km + train ride)
Paid for yesterdays inaction with a mental day of travel. As we hadn't enjoyed city riding and knew that camps in the northern half of Italy closed after September, we decided to ditch Roma and Napoli and catch a train to Sorrento. Rode quickly to Viterbo where we caught the first of three trains to get us to our destination.
Paid for yesterdays inaction with a mental day of travel. As we hadn't enjoyed city riding and knew that camps in the northern half of Italy closed after September, we decided to ditch Roma and Napoli and catch a train to Sorrento. Rode quickly to Viterbo where we caught the first of three trains to get us to our destination.
Day 59 - Sorrento -> Marina del Cantone (26km)
Woke to glorious view of Vesuvio and the golfo di Napoli this morning. Explored Sorrento and crossed peninsular to Marina del Cantone by harder route than intended as roads were closed for an Automobillistica (rally?). Massive descent into Cantone's cove on a dead end road left us worry about tomorrows climb to get out...
Woke to glorious view of Vesuvio and the golfo di Napoli this morning. Explored Sorrento and crossed peninsular to Marina del Cantone by harder route than intended as roads were closed for an Automobillistica (rally?). Massive descent into Cantone's cove on a dead end road left us worry about tomorrows climb to get out...
Day 60 - Marina del Cantone -> Maiori (40km)
Climb out of cove was easier than expected. Thanks Tuscany! Your hills prepared us well. Had loads of fun riding the Amalfi coast's winding roads. Buses horns can be heard constantly as they hurtle round tiny blind corners. Had lunch in Positano where tourists and locals looked at us as if we were dressed as chickens. Fruitless search for camp meant our first night in a hotel! Good one though and not too expensive. We cooked our dinner on the balcony!
Climb out of cove was easier than expected. Thanks Tuscany! Your hills prepared us well. Had loads of fun riding the Amalfi coast's winding roads. Buses horns can be heard constantly as they hurtle round tiny blind corners. Had lunch in Positano where tourists and locals looked at us as if we were dressed as chickens. Fruitless search for camp meant our first night in a hotel! Good one though and not too expensive. We cooked our dinner on the balcony!
Day 61 - Maiori -> Salerno (31km)
Made a mockery of the hotels all you can eat breakfast buffet before going to Amalfi. Really lovely, if a little touristy. Tried Limoncello and found out how its made. Also had some delicious lemon gelato. On to Salerno after that where we stayed in a hostel so we could visit "Il Brigantte", a famous(?) trattoria to celebrate passing the 3000kms mark. Had a great night, the whole place got involved trying to translate the menu to us.
Made a mockery of the hotels all you can eat breakfast buffet before going to Amalfi. Really lovely, if a little touristy. Tried Limoncello and found out how its made. Also had some delicious lemon gelato. On to Salerno after that where we stayed in a hostel so we could visit "Il Brigantte", a famous(?) trattoria to celebrate passing the 3000kms mark. Had a great night, the whole place got involved trying to translate the menu to us.
Day 62 - Salerno -> Ogliastro Marina (86km)
Second breakfast buffet in two days! Had 2nd look at Salerno on way out. It's an interesting place - a real mixed bag. Coast between Salerno and Paestum is really trashy (we saw our first prostitute...out before lunch!) so we wasted no time getting through it. Shame really as when we took a look at the beach it was beautiful. Lunch of mozzarella in Paestum. This is the best mozzarella as it is made from the buffalo of the Sele plains, where we were! Searched from Agripoli to Ogliastro Marina for a campsite but they were all closed. Looking like we were in a bit of a pickle until we chanced on a campervan park where a very kind couple (Rosario & Ada) let us stay for the night. Within minutes of pulling up they had insisted we stay in their caravan and given us freshly baked biscuits and water. Hope it wasn't because we look so haggered!
Second breakfast buffet in two days! Had 2nd look at Salerno on way out. It's an interesting place - a real mixed bag. Coast between Salerno and Paestum is really trashy (we saw our first prostitute...out before lunch!) so we wasted no time getting through it. Shame really as when we took a look at the beach it was beautiful. Lunch of mozzarella in Paestum. This is the best mozzarella as it is made from the buffalo of the Sele plains, where we were! Searched from Agripoli to Ogliastro Marina for a campsite but they were all closed. Looking like we were in a bit of a pickle until we chanced on a campervan park where a very kind couple (Rosario & Ada) let us stay for the night. Within minutes of pulling up they had insisted we stay in their caravan and given us freshly baked biscuits and water. Hope it wasn't because we look so haggered!
Day 63 - Ogliastro Marina -> Palinuro
Rosario & Ada's generoisity continued with a coffee and more biscuits in their kitchen. Ada took a bit of a fancy to Charlie. We got a picture and said goodbye before heading off on another hilly day. At one point the road was possibly 1:3 as a landslide had been roughly patched over. Beautiful coastline in this national park though and the water is incredibly clear. Again we couldn't find a camp site and as Rosaria had warned us off free camping saying it wasn't safe we booked into another hotel. Oh well, we're the only guests and we've got an amazing view from our balcony (which we cooked dinner on again).
NB - Charlie's bike is now called Rosario in honour of his help in our hour of need!
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